Read what satisfied customers have to say about our decking, docking and hog flooring products.

TREDZ™ Decking Installation Instructions

There are a few things to decide before starting to build a Deck.

Size, Location, and Design.

The size of the deck will have a factor on the type of framing. Smaller decks can be framed as in the 12x12 example. Larger decks spanning over 12 foot need larger joists, and a different framing system is recommended. It is also recommended to stay within 2 foot increments, for length and width. This will conserve lumber waste and make things work out best for the TREDZ decking.
The location of the deck needs to be determined being mindful of any obstruction either above ground or below ground. Electric, gas, telephone, water, and sewer lines, septic tanks, gutter and garage drains. To name a few could hinder the location of your deck. Calling Miss Dig will determine the location of any underground utilities. This service is free and could save you time and money for any repairs to these utilities. Check with your township for permit and code requirements, and property boundaries.
The design of the deck. Weather proof material must be used. Pressure treated lumber is most common. There are a few options to consider. The TREDZ decking can be installed either in a parallel or diagonal pattern. For a parallel pattern the joists need to be 16 inches on center. For a diagonal pattern the joists need to be 12 inches on center. The decking can also be installed either flush with outside framing, or boxing, or with overhang past the boxing. There are trim pieces available for both options. When overhanging decking reduce the side of framing by 1-1/4 inches for each overhang. If a railing is necessary 4x4 posts must be extended 37 inches past decking. If a stairway is needed, refer to stair instructions for tread size and riser height.

TREDZ Decking and Trim

TREDZ decking and trim pieces are made of plastic and will expand and contract with temperature changes. Each piece of decking will expand and contract by 3/16 of an inch from 0-100 degrees Fahrenheit. Spacing for expansion is regulated by clips and crush ribs. The materials should be stored near the deck location at least one day before installation, so parts will acclimate to temperature and conditions of the area.
-Decking butt joints should be within 4 inches of a joist for maximum strength.
-For best results, use a miter saw with fine tooth blade to cut the TREDZ decking.

There are a number of trim parts available for TREDZ decking.

            -Channel Trim: Used on edge’s of decking that overhang the deck boxing.
            -Slotted Channel: Used as a freeze trim at walls, with nailing slots for joists.
            -Corner Trim: Used on edge’s of decking that are flush with the deck boxing.
            -Slotted Corner: Used on edge’s of decking that will be covered with boxing trim.
            -Boxing Trim: Used on boxing and stair stringers.
            -B T Clip: (Boxing Trim Clip) Used to hold top of edge of boxing trim.
            -Stair Riser: Used on stair risers, (vertical part of stairway)
            -T Trim: Used on angled decking joints.
            -Trim fasteners: Plastic push through fasteners for installing trim pieces.

Deck Instructions, 12x12 Example

#1
a. Remove siding below door way
b. Put rolled aluminum flashing on wall, a few inches past where ends of deck board will be, and nail with siding nails.
c. Nail the cut 2x8 to wall level, and at determined height from door.
d. Install deck flashing above deck board on wall, running it past deck board 1 ½” past both ends.

#2
a. At one end of deck board use a 4 foot level to plumb down to ground. Use small marks with a pencil at end of level on siding and keep moving down to ground.

b. Lay a straight 2x8 flat and away from wall at plumbed mark.
c. Square up 2x8 by measuring out from wall, put a mark at 8 foot. Measure 6 feet along wall and mark. From mark on wall to mark on 2x8 it must be 10 feet, adjust 2x8 so that it is 10 feet between marks. Use this board as a reference for marking out posts.

#3
a. Dig holes for 4x4 posts so that concrete footers fit in at least 3 feet deep.
b. Cut two 2x8’s 1 1/2” less than determined width. (A)
c. Cut one 2x8 at determined length. (B)
d. Put 4x4 posts in holes without back filling.
e. Nail board (A) to deck board on wall, making sure crown* of board (A) is up.
f. Level board (A) and put one nail into end post, with board flush with post.
g. Repeat with opposite side.
h. Nail board (B), (crown up) to ends of both (A) boards.
i. Plumb all posts in both directions and nail.
j. Square up by adjusting so that diagonal measurements are the same at both sides.
k. Nail a brace on top of 2x8’s to keep square and straight.
l. Keeping 2x8’s straight, and posts plumb, back fill posts.

*Crown, to determine the crown of a board, slight down the narrow edge and look for a crown or an arch
in the center of the board.

#4
a. Double up end board (B) with another 2x8 for added strength.
b. Lay out joist spacing (16”o.c. normal, 12”o.c. diagonal) on 2x8 on wall, and board (B) at opposite end.
c. Measure and cut 2x8 joists to fit between.
d. With crown up, nail joists in plumb, using a square off top of boxing. Toenail at top of joists, leaving room for joist hangers.
e. Nail in 2x8 joist hangers, using galvanized joist hanger nails.
f. Secure 2x8’s at wall and at posts with ½”x4” lag bolts. Counter sink lag bolts if using boxing trim.

-READY FOR DECKING

STAIRS: If installing stairs on deck, use 12x12 stair stringers 16” on center. The riser height should be no more than 7 inches. The tread length should be 10-1/2 inches, allowing for a 1-1/2” overhang. A 3/4'” backer should be used when using the riser trim. To find the number of risers add 1-1/2” to top of boxing, or lay a piece of TREDZ decking on top of boxing. If the ground is close to level as far out as the stairs will end up, measure from the ground to the top side of the decking. If the ground is not level, figure out the difference in height and ass or subtract to the measurement. In inches divide by 7, this will be your number of risers. If not devisable by 7, find a number under 7 inches that will (6.75, 6.5, 6.25, etc.). And use that new number for the riser height. Using a framing square, mark out 12x12. Using the calculated rider height, and the 10-1/2” tread length. At the first step the rise will need to be 1-1/2” less to allow for decking thickness. And at the top step ¾” less off of the tread length, is using the ¾” backer on the risers. After cutting the first stringer, check and see how it works by putting it up to the boxing. The top step needs to be down from boxing the same as the riser measurement used. Put a level line on the boxing at that measurement. Put a level on the tread part of the stringer on the ground, it’s good. Trace out onto two more 12x12’s and cut two more stringers. If stairs are wider than 3 foot, more stringers are needed. Nail an extra 2x8 as wide as stairs and up to the bottom of boxing. Mark out where stringers will go on the 2x8, using those lines and the level line on the boxing, nail the stringers to it. At the bottom of the stringers put a 2x8 flat and as wide as stairs for a support. Keeping stair stringers square with deck frame and level across all of the stringers. Put two posts at the bottom end of the outside stringers, 38-1/2” above the first step. Nail the ¾” (1x8 pressure treated) backing to the risers.

STAIRS, continued: Cut TREDZ stair risers to length and height, (if needed) and install onto backing on stair stringers.

#5
a. For better support around posts, nail or screw blocks around posts.

#6
a. Measure and cut a piece of TREDZ decking (note deck overhang options) making sure that forked end joint is at least 4” from a joist.
b. Cut a hole for post, (if posts run through deck for railings).
c. Slide on same number of clips as number of joists that the decking will be on.
d. Place decking, center clips on joists, and fasten with #8 x 1/1/2” screws.
e. On outer side edge of dock fasten with #8 x 2-1/2” screws. On outer front limit to one screw per part to allow for expansion.
f. Repeat above steps with smaller piece of decking, and snap into clips on longer piece.

#7
a. Continue with full deck parts, sliding clips on , and cutting around posts on front edge.
b. Slide parts into mating ends of secured parts on deck, tap in with rubber mallet.
c. Center clips on joists, and fasten with #8 x 1-1/2” screws.
d. Cut end pieces flush with outer edge, and put #8 x 2-1/2” screws on outer edge of first row.

#8
a. Continue with second row, slide clips on parts.
b. Slide parts into mating ends of secured parts on deck, and snap into clips on first row.
c. Center clips on joists, and fasten with #8 x 1-1/2” screws.
d. Cut end pieces flush with outer edge, and put two #8 x 2-1/2” screws on end of last piece.

#9
a. Stagger joints by using longer piece for next row and dropping back one joist for the next.
b. When starting a new row, remember to fasten ends with two #8 x 2-1/2” screws.

#10
a. Continue with rows toward house wall.
b. Make sure that the distance between the house wall and completed rows stays the same at both ends of the deck.
c. If needed, rip pieces to fit last row at house wall, and fasten with #8 x 2-1/2” screws.

#11
a. Cut and install trim parts by drilling ¼” holes through trim and decking. And using the push through fasteners every 12 inches (closer on traffic areas).
b. Replace siding, using siding (J) channel around deck and framing, and replacing siding panels.